Solid wood and engineered flooring may be installed using a nail-down installation method. The flooring is attached to a tongue and groove plywood or wooden subfloor (A subfloor is a rough floor over which a finished floor or flooring material is laid.) using nails or staples. This method of installation is typically not used below grade (Grade is the level at which the ground surface meets the foundation of a building.) because the subfloor is usually concrete. Please note that regardless of installation method, 21mm solid wood flooring should not be installed below grade.
The boards are attached to the subfloor using either a manual or pneumatic nailer. The edge of the nailer is placed against the tongue of the board and the plunger is hit with the mallet. That snugs the two boards together and drives a two-inch nail cleat through the tongue and into the subfloor. Whenever possible, it is best to use this method of installation when installing hardwood flooring.
Please read complete manufacturer's instructions before you begin. This will insure proper installation.
Step by Step Instructions
- Getting Started
- Using a chalk line, draw a guide line parallel at 3-inch (7.5 cm) of the starting wall for the strips of 2 1/4-inch (5.7cm) wide, or 4-inch (10cm) for strips of 3 1/4-inch (8.2cm) wide, considering the 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) minimum expansion space between the wall and the first strip, and another 1/4 inch (6mm) for the tongue. This guide line must be at a 90 degree angle to the adjacent wall. It is very important to start straight and square.
- Select the strips, for the first 3 rows, and lay them out on the floor in the general pattern in which they will be installed. The straightest strips should be used for these first three rows of floor.
- Always select your strips with care. Those with flaws must be recut.
- The First Rows
- Lay the tongue edge of the strip on the guide line, leaving a 1/2 inch (1.3cm) minimum space for expansion between the groove edge and the starting wall. This expansion space will allow the wood to expand freely. The baseboard or molding, nailed to the wall, should cover the expansion space, once the job is done.
- The first row must be secured to the floor using screw shank flooring nails (or finishing nails). Drill holes on the surface of the strip at 1-inch (2.5cm) from the edge, and at approximately 12-inch (30 cm) to 16-inch (40cm) apart. These holes will make it easier to insert the nails and to avoid damaging the strip. Next, secure the strip in place using a claw hammer and nail punch.
- The first rows must be nailed by hand rather than with the hardwood floor nailer because of the vertical wall obstruction. When clearance allows, the hardwood floor nailer which drives 2-inch (5 cm) nails (or cleats) can be used to simplify and speed the nailing process.
- Measure and cut the strip the required length to finish the first row. The remaining section should be used to start the second row, in order to minimize cutting waste. The strip selected for completing the first row must be long enough to yield a remaining section of adequate length. Leave 1/4-inch (6 mm) between the wall and the end of each strip in each row.
- Start the second row with a strip of at least 6-inch (15 cm) shorter or longer than the strip used in the first row. This will avoid aligning or clustering the end joints. Set the strip in place, drill a hole on the tongue edge at a 45 degree angle at every 8 to 10-inch (20 to 25 cm) apart, then using screw shank flooring nails, and secure it in place.
- The Subsequent Rows
- The subsequent rows must be installed in the same manner, this time by using the hardwood floor nailer when you have wall obstruction clearance. Don't be afraid to waste a few strips in order to determine the strength requested to properly drive the nail in. You must nail every 8 to 10-inch (20 to 25 cm) apart and within not more than 3-inch (7.5 cm) of the end of each board. See the hardwood floor nailing tips below.
- Lay out 6 to 8 rows of boards ahead of work position as to mix lengths and shades, ensuring also that the end joints are not aligned and that the floor pattern is aesthetically pleasing.
- Complete nailing the working strip flooring row, before starting nailing the following row.
- Sweep up any sawdust and bits of waste wood, and undo cardboard boxes and spread them out to protect the floor surface during all the installation.
- The Last Rows
- Again, because of vertical wall obstruction, the last 4 to 5 rows must be installed in the same manner as the first rows. The use of the hardwood floor nailer is impossible. The drill, screw shank flooring nails, hammer and nail punch will do the trick.
- Note that you may have to cut the last strip along the wall. Don't forget to leave a 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) space between the strip and the wall for expansion.
- For the last row, drill holes on the surface of the strip at approximately 1-inch (2.5 cm) from the edge strip, and nail it in place like the first row. Conceal the nail holes with filler stick.
- Final Touches
- Install the baseboards, wood vents and door sills.
- Following the initial installation, vacuum thoroughly and lightly spray Xylon hardwood floor cleaner on the terry cloth mop. Then wipe the surface clean by removing loose dirt or soil. Do not spray directly on the floor.
- Always keep a few spare strips from your initial installation, for possible repairs.
- Hardwood Floor Nailing Tips
Here are a few tips to make your job easier, should you decide to use a manual hardwood floor nailer:
- Prevent any scratches and indentations of the surface of the board by keeping the nailer plate (base) clean, free from nicks and scratches at all times, and also by putting down the nailer on the plywood or on a piece of cardboard, not directly on the prefinished floor.
- By adopting a standing position while using the manual nailer, you will deploy more strength when you drive the nails in. Nails that are nearly embedded can be driven in place by using the hammer and a nail punch.
- Hold the nailer firmly in place and hit the head of the nailer with the rubber end of the mallet.
- Make sure the nailer base is squared and sits well on the edge of the strip to avoid damaging the edges of the strips.
- Verify regularly the hardwood floor nailer is in working condition to prevent damages to strips.
Pneumatic nailer: Air pressure should be adjusted adequately for each species of hardwood floor installed (always try it before using) and checked regularly.
|
